Camera Dictionary

These days, most people probably own a camera, be it a DSLR or a mirrorless. But since technology is so advanced now, a large percentage of camera users use their cameras on full auto mode without really understanding how the camera works. And it's hard to blame them, figuring out all those geeky terms can be quite confusing and difficult. If my dad hadn't taught me, I would never have been able to figure it out on my own. You might ask then, what's the point of learning all these so painstakingly when there's auto mode?

Because it gives you control over the photos that you're making. For example, it allows you to get the mood that you want for your photo instead of doing it in post-production. So just like how my dad helped me with the camera lingo basics, I'm gonna help you guys out too.

ISO - ISO refers to your camera's sensitivity towards light. The normal range for DSLRs these days is 100 to 25, 600. When there are lots of light at the place you are in, we go for a lower ISO such as 100. However, if the place is dimly lit, or it's getting cloudy (and you don't want to use a flash), we use a higher ISO such as 3200. The higher ISO you use, the more grain you get in your photographs. With digital cameras, we are able to adjust our ISO accordingly with the light available to us. But with film, you are stuck with a fixed ISO because the film you buy determines your ISO. The ISO is usually written down on the film's name, such as Portra 400, where 400 refers to the ISO you'll be stuck with.

Shutter Speed - How long your camera's shutter is open to take in light. A faster shutter speed would involve larger numbers as the denominator (e.g. 1/1000) and a slower shutter speed would involve smaller numbers as the denominator (e.g. 1/80). Needless to say, a faster shutter speed means less light is taken in since it only opens for a shorter period of time, while a slower shutter speed means more light taken in. Faster shutter speeds are usually used for fast moving subjects (e.g. sports photography), and minimizes hand shake. Slower shutter speeds for subjects that are not really moving (e.g. portraiture), and can be susceptible to hand shake if too slow a shutter speed is used. What's the point of a slower shutter speed? It gives you more contrast in your photos, providing a nicer colour overall, whereas a faster shutter speed might end up giving you softer images. But these are not necessarily bad things, it all depends on what you're going for.
If we slow it down to shutter speeds like 1 second, or even 30 seconds, we call it long exposures and tripods are usually required because we do not have tripod-stable hands. Long exposures are useful when capturing water as they render the water into one smooth blur, and for sunsets where you get nice rich colours. It is also used very frequently at night, where high ISOs do not work at all. It can be used to capture stars, buildings, light trails, or light painting. One thing to note about using long exposures in the day (water, sunset, sunrise, etc.) is that it might be useful to bring some neutral density filters along, or you might get overexposed photographs. The filters help to block out some light, allowing for a longer exposure.

Aperture - Aperture also determines how much light your camera takes in when you take a photograph, but unlike shutter speed, aperture is determined by your lens and how wide open or closed it is. It is denoted by f/n, where n is a number. Apart from light, aperture also determines your depth of field. A larger aperture like f/1.8 gives you a shallower depth of field, where less things are in focus (more bokeh!). A smaller aperture like f/22 gives you more depth of field, which means more things in focus.

Shallow depth of field / Bokeh! 

Your exposure will then be set using the three settings (ISO, shutter speed, and aperture). Depending on what you're going for (long exposure, bokeh, etc.), your settings will change accordingly. So don't be afraid, and experiment with your settings!

Playing with Lego | Stuck at Home Photography Idea

What do you do if it's raining cats and dogs or it's really hazy outdoors, or you're just too lazy to go outside but you still want to take photos? You can either brave the weather (like what we did in the Swaggerpuff's adventure) or get creative indoors with whatever you can find, like your toys!

I was stuck at home for a long period of time because of the haze hitting the unhealthy range and I got really bored. But with boredom, comes creativity. I remembered a video I watched on DigitalRev about stuck at home photography ideas and the Lego set that the government gave to every single youth in Singapore for youth day, so I decided to do a little something with it. With the instructions manual under my knee, and a whole bunch of Lego pieces in front of me, I started building what seemed to be Changi Airport. It took me about 30 - 45 minutes to get the whole thing built because the instructions weren't exactly the clearest. I was so focused with getting the structure built that I forgot to take some photos of the process. Well, lesson learnt. If I'm ever doing this again, I'll make sure to take some photos.

I tried to take portraits of the Lego guy as creatively as I could, by putting him on top of a lens, at the top of my Changi Airport Lego structure and on my window ledge. I don't have a macro lens, so I used my dad's Vivitar 28-70mm f/3.5 - f/4.5 manual focus only lens. At 70mm, it gives a very decent bokeh and is more close up as compared to my usual kit lens (18-55mm f/3.5 - f/5.6). I could have used my Tamron 70 - 300mm lens which has a macro function, but the lens was too huge to use handheld (for me at least) and I didn't have enough space in my room to go till 300mm.

I only took a few shots with my Lego set since it was nearing dusk and the sunlight was diminishing fast, especially with the thick haze that was going on.

A failed attempt at trying to make my Lego guy look like he's doing parkour.

For those of you who wish to try doing this the next time you're stuck at home, here's a few tips!

1. Use a lens that can focus at very near distances; if you're trying to make your Lego character look bigger than it actually is, then a lens that can focus at very near distances would be apt. It'd be best if you have a macro/micro lens, but not everybody has that. I wouldn't recommend a telephoto lens since you would need to use a tripod and you'll find yourself running back and forth between your set and your camera since you'll need a certain distance in between.

2. Have a large space to play with; This is important if you're trying to make an entire city out of your Lego set, or you like minimalist photos. I was working with a tight space since I used my bay window to take the photos. Use your dining table for a start, you should have lots of space to play with.

3. Get creative; This is something I only thought of while I was writing this post, hence I didn't get to use it. But if you have a tripod, you can try using all the nooks and crannies in your house for your shots. Maybe the toilet, or even in your kitchen. Even the most unconventional places might work out and make your photos more interesting. Why do you need a tripod? For longer exposures / slower shutter speeds in areas with low light. Using a flash can be unflattering, hence a longer exposure is a better option. Of course, you don't necessarily have to use Lego sets either, you can take any small toy that you have and play around with it!

Here's the video from DigitalRev in case you were wondering!